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Yellow Long Neck Fig

Yellow Long Neck Fig

$148.85 USD
$179.51 USD $148.85 USD
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The Yellow Long Neck Fig, also known as the Honey Fig, produces large, round fruit with thin, tender skin and sweet amber flesh. Known for its cold-hardiness and high yield, this fig is perfect for home gardens, thriving in full sun and producing delicious fruit that can be enjoyed fresh, dried, or made into jam.

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Yellow Long Neck Fig: The Sweet, Easy-Growing Backyard Favorite

The Yellow Long Neck Fig, affectionately called the "Honey Fig," is every gardener's dream fruit tree. Picture plump, golden-yellow figs hanging from sturdy branches, their sweet honey-like flavor perfect for fresh eating, drying, or making into preserves. What makes this variety special is its incredible adaptability – it thrives in both hot summers and cooler winters (down to Zone 7), grows happily in containers, and produces heavy crops without needing a second tree for pollination. Whether you're new to growing figs or a seasoned pro, this low-maintenance tree delivers delicious rewards year after year.

Finding the Perfect Spot

Like all figs, the Yellow Long Neck is a sun worshipper. Choose a location that gets at least 8 hours of direct sunlight daily – south-facing spots are ideal. While it appreciates warmth, protection from strong winds helps prevent damage to its large leaves and heavy fruit. Planting near a wall or fence not only shields it from wind but also reflects heat, giving your figs an extra boost. If you're in a cooler climate (Zones 6-7), consider growing it in a large container so you can move it to a sheltered spot during freezing weather. Give it plenty of room to grow, keeping it at least 10 feet away from other trees or structures.

Preparing the Right Soil

Good drainage is the golden rule for fig trees. They hate "wet feet," so avoid areas where water collects after rain. The ideal soil is loose and loamy, but you can improve heavy clay or sandy soil by mixing in plenty of compost or aged manure. If your soil tends to stay soggy, planting in a raised mound (about 12-18 inches high) helps keep roots dry. A simple pH test will tell you if your soil needs adjusting – figs prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil (6.0-7.5). Once planted, spread a 3-4 inch layer of mulch around the base (but not touching the trunk) to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

Planting for Success

Early spring is the best time to plant, after the last frost but before summer's heat arrives. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper – you want the top of the roots level with the ground. If your tree is pot-bound, gently loosen the roots before planting. Backfill with a mix of native soil and compost, firming gently as you go. Water deeply right after planting to settle the soil, and keep the soil consistently moist (but not waterlogged) for the first few weeks as it establishes. Young trees might need staking in windy areas, but remove supports after the first year so the trunk can strengthen naturally.

Keeping Pests and Diseases at Bay

Yellow Long Neck Figs are relatively trouble-free, but a few issues can pop up. Watch for fig beetles, aphids, and birds going after your ripe fruit. A strong spray of water often knocks off small pests, while netting protects fruit from birds. The most common diseases (like rust or souring fruit) usually stem from too much moisture – so proper spacing, pruning for airflow, and avoiding overhead watering go a long way in prevention. If you notice yellowing leaves, check your watering – figs dislike constantly soggy soil.

Harvesting Your Golden Bounty

The magic moment comes when the figs are soft to the touch, slightly droopy, and come off the tree with just a gentle lift. They won't ripen further after picking, so patience is key. Harvest in the cool morning hours, handling the delicate fruit carefully to avoid bruising. Depending on your climate, you'll be picking from late summer through fall. Fresh figs are perishable, so enjoy them quickly or preserve them by drying (which intensifies their sweetness), making jam, or freezing for later use.

Growing More Trees

One of the joys of figs is how easily they propagate. In late winter, take 10-12 inch cuttings from healthy branches, dip the ends in rooting hormone, and plant them in pots with well-draining soil. Keep them moist and in a sheltered spot, and by next season you'll have new trees to expand your orchard or share with friends. You can also try air layering (wrapping a branch in moist moss to encourage roots) or simply bending a low branch to the ground and burying part of it to root – nature's way of making more fig trees!

Growning Zone 7-10
Uses Fresh Eating, Canning / Preserves
Harvest Period Very Late
Low Chill Yes
Pollination Requirement Self-Fertile
Recommended Spacing 4-8 ft.
Mature Size 4-8 ft.

Growing Zones: 7-11 outdoors

Mastering hydration and nutrition is critical for premium fruit production. Water deeply until moisture penetrates 18-24 inches into the soil, then permit the top 2-3 inches to dry thoroughly before rehydrating. This cyclical approach encourages robust root development while preventing the root rot that plagues waterlogged specimens. During fruit swelling in late spring through summer, maintain consistent (but not excessive) soil moisture to avoid shriveled or split figs. For nutrition, adopt a minimalist philosophy: apply a single, early-spring feeding of low-nitrogen fertilizer (5-7-7 NPK ratio ideal) to fuel fruiting without triggering excessive foliage. Annually top-dress with compost, which slowly releases nutrients while improving soil tilth and microbial activity. Overzealous feeding manifests as yellowing leaves and diminished yields—less truly is more.

Pruning demands surgical precision timed during late winter dormancy (February to early March), well before bud break. This timing minimizes sap loss while allowing clear visibility of the tree’s structure. Begin by excising all dead, diseased, or damaged wood. The three D’s that harbor pathogens. Next, address congestion: thin crossing branches and inward-growing shoots to create an open vase shape, ensuring sunlight dapples every fruit-bearing branch and air circulates freely to thwart fungal invaders. Remember that figs fruit exclusively on new growth; thus, lightly tip back overly vigorous shoots to stimulate productive branching while avoiding aggressive cuts that sacrifice potential harvest. Remove suckers at the base to direct energy skyward. Always wear gloves—the milky sap irritates skin—and view pruning as curating a fruit factory rather than merely controlling size.

Cold resilience defines this variety, yet intelligent overwintering ensures vitality. In-ground trees within Zone 7 require mounded insulation: after leaf drop, smother the root zone (extending 3 feet beyond the drip line) under 12-18 inches of shredded leaves or straw, securing it with burlap against wind and rain. Wrap young trunks with tree guards to thwart rodent gnawing and prevent sunscald. For container-grown figs in Zones 6 or below, relocate pots before hard frosts to an unheated sanctuary—a garage, shed, or cellar maintaining 35-50°F. Water monthly to prevent root desiccation, but avoid triggering growth. Crucially, never shelter trees in heated spaces; they require chilling hours to break dormancy properly. In Zone 8+, mature specimens typically survive with merely 6 inches of root mulch, while juveniles benefit from trunk wrapping during frost events. This stratified approach honors the tree’s Mediterranean heritage while conceding to local winters.

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